Johnathan Valentin: hi , i have an seiki led tv. model # SE322FS . well it has a black screen did the flashlight test and saw an image . i searched around the web. looking for the best fix. would the led drivers be integrated in with the main board??? plz. help at a pause .email@example.com.
Johnathan Valentin: hi , i have an seiki led tv. model # SE322FS . well it has a black screen did the flashlight test and saw an image . i searched around the web. looking for the best fix. would the led drivers be integrated in with the main board??? plz. help at a pause .
linemods1: I have a Element ELGFW551 55" Class Widescreen LCD HDTV - We use a satellite receiver for tuner and plug into HDMI port - Problem: After the unit has warmed up (about 20 minutes or so), the signal drops out/resets and appears to reboot video card - screen reads "signal loss" then resets and picture comes back - and becomes more frequent the warmer it gets. What components should I replace to reduce the chance of having to perform surgery twice?
Bobwith Tam: Got one for you Dave, was pulling my hair out with an inverter board issue and watching your videos for hints on what I was doing wrong. Found the issue was this simple, on the ribbon connecting to the master board, under the blue protective strip, a small part of the corner of the ribbon was bent under... that took a minute to find I'll tell you.
jessy birhan: The universes need more of your kind of people keep up infecting us with this power full disease called knowledge!.. well done time well spent
pei broker: good problem solving technique, thanks...
dbguerrero: Tried to find a better place to ask question but no go. Have replaced obvious burned backlight inverter and now new board overheats too (still functional, unplugged TV). LG 42LG30 - is this more likely due to bad part in the power PCB or the main board PCB? Realize no guarantee just if you had no ability to replace anything beyond a whole board, which board more likely has the bad part?
Ginger Shark: Thank you for this video. The other day when I went to visit my dad at his office, I found that the town started to drop off their old and none working tech for proper disposal around the corner. there I found the same TV you are working on. The screen was in perfect shape but the base was gone and the remote and power cable as well. I would have to guess that the original owner had it mounted on the wall and did bother to see how to fix it. I got into it and found the same two capacitors you found and there were bulging.
online I found that people are sell repair kits for this model of TV and they are just the capacitors. I'm in college and money is tight, so if i just need to replace those two to get a working $500 HDTV for just around $16, that's perfect. Just wish it went to 1080p and not 1080i.
Oh well! beggars can't be choosers.
thank you for posting this video.
FREDDIE MAXWELL: Hello Dave...Love watching your videos. Thanks for sharing your wealth of practical knowledge for us to learn from...
I'm an 'Old School' ham radio operator (Inactive) but still hold my license...Tube equipment was still popular when I got into electronics and radio in the early 70's.
I just started playing around with these LCD TV's & Monitors. I'm a volunteer at a electronics recycling center and I'm seeing a lot of these modern TV's showing up all the time. Some of them are only a couple years old. I asked my manager if it would ok for me to load them up in my truck and take em home to see if I can get them going...He said...Sure go right ahead..
Anyways...I just got done working on the same Polaroid 32" like the one at the beginning of this video...I spent almost an hour trying to get inside the darn thing... Removed around 20 screws and still couldn't figure out how to get to the innards. Well of course you're probably having a little laugh right about now and so was I when I realized it was as easy as removing 4 screws. I gotta say this Polaroid is a very well thought out design for ease of servicing.
I found the same 2 caps were bad in my set...I replaced them and the set came to life and working fine, guess those transistors on the heat sink were okay, but now I'm wondering if it will stay working, or should I consider replacing them so the same thing won't happen again? Did the caps fail and take out the transistors or the other way round?
I have some questions about an LG 32" model that I will post for you later...
Thanks again...Freddie (WB9RTZ)
mustwatchtv1: thank you so much....wound up being 2 capacitors and 2 transisters
mustwatchtv1: I find this also very interesting, and great work,I have the same tv as in your video on my power supply I changed 2 very blown caps and I also changed the f2 fuse and now the f2 blows as soon as I plug it in without any other connection to the power supply ,this does make me believe that the problem is somewhere on the power supply,how do I check the transisters,3 points what reading should I get with my ohm meter...thanks for any info
gary scott: Howdy ,i find this very interesting
William Squires: And be careful, most SMPS have a heat-sink that's at mains potential (or worse!)
HK76931: yea i figured that one is totally dead but so I still have 2 boards that get me to the blue light but no power on lol I guess I will try yet another psu. thanks for getting back to me
Grants Pass TV Repair: The power supply that wasn't able to turn on light at all is most likely bad.
Grants Pass TV Repair: Yes if you can turn the lights on and off this is generally a good indication that your main board is probably okay.
HK76931: another person said that if i am able to hit the power button and get a blue light and then hit it again to get the red stand by light, that my main board should be good because i wouldnt have that function
HK76931: sorry , i was referring to the power supply that i replaced the cap on and then ordered 2 other power supplies. one gave me the same result with being able to get the blue light when hitting the power button and the other was totally dead, no blue light