thepoultrypeople: i wouldnt have thought of making a bell housing jacket, good idea, your
weldings got to be better than mine then :) hows this project coming on?
winters biting at the door again
Terry O'Rourke: great Terry
Alastair Cook: Hi
I like your design, and your ethos of sharing technical advances and
techniques in a simple to understand manner.
Are you using the vortex as you showed how to join the riser to a
rectangular tube that you showed how to make in a previous video?
Your design now resembles the "rocket stove on steroids design", with your
Have you ever considered a 45 degree self feed for the wood? I would like
to make a small stove for outdoor cooking, similar to the DK rocket but I
would also like the wood to self feed if possible, like the apostle stove.
I would also like a secondary burn, but would this setup melt the frying
drew aitchison: danger ?
Graham Orm: Thanks for that. there's loads of small companies locally I'll find one.
ppotty1: Hi Reginald, Thanks for the warning I am well aware of the dangers
regarding boilers so I am cautious as I proceed with this. The small rocket
I am using to test takes a while to get to temp especially when enclosed
with the boiler because i am testing outside the water temp is only around
40f and the boiler is full before I start. this leads to quite a smokey
burn until the water warms up another reason why I will probably change the
design of the boiler.
Homeengineering: In your drawing you show the flue coming out at the top of the stove, when
convention normally dictates that the flue exits at the bottom of the
rocket stove. If it exits at the top you will be sending higher temperature
gases up the flue than if you exit at the bottom of the stove. I am working
on a similar new rocket stove and will keep checking in with you and
hopefully we can share ideas. I can't do much with mine for the next month
as work is calling me away :-(
ppotty1: Thanks scott, yes looks good so far.
ppotty1: Yes the pipe as the water heater might be the way to go yet..Just sat the
riser over a hole again so it could suck the air up and mix it at the base,
seems to get the best results so far.
Reginald Kinnaman: I worked around Boilers for 23 years, one thing you want to be careful of
is introducing very cold water into a hot boiler. I made that mistake once
and scared the heck out of me. The boiler was 2 stories high and built like
a bomb shelter, but the cold water expands quickly and sounds like
explosions. You would be safer to heat off the chimney (or maybe Pre-heat
before entering the hotter part of the stove.) Look up Boiler Explosion on
Youtube before going too far.
John Holmes: I wonder if you built a water jacket around the rocket tube itself instead
of using perlite for direct insulation to the rocket tube? No copper
tubing, just an inlet and outlet for the water. What do you plan to do with
the heated water? Have it inline with a traditional water heater and
somehow keep it cycling? Seems with the extreme heat of the rocket you'd be
making steam in no time.
tryin2lhard: Looks like a good idea, you could coil stainless steel pipe to fit inside
the updraft tube. It may be better to wrap them on the outside so they will
hold up longer over use. Did you run your secondary air line into the side
of the updraft tube? I was not able to make out clearly how you did it.
Thanks for sharing man.
Reginald Kinnaman: I have considered taking an old gas water heater and attaching a J tube to
the bottom of it. They already have a flu pipe up the middle. It would only
be operable while being attended though.
Inspironator: (Continuation - part 2 of 2) The other approach is to take more heat out of
the surface of the stove, since that room gets unbearable and redistribute
it via the hot water. You wouldn't need much pipe to add heat to the water
pipe since the stove surface gets so hot, just a short serpentine run on 1
side, with input on the bottom and output on the top for thermosiphon
effect. Water pipe on the outside keeps cleaning issues to a minimum. Good
luck and nice work!
ppotty1: I agree Jeff, the current house stove i have puts too much heat into the
room when it is heating all the water, by the time the rest of the house is
warm the room the stove is in is unbearable so i have to open the window,
hopefully this design will put more heat into the water than the room.
Graham Orm: Will do, you sound very Manc. Looks like I'll be learning to weld stainless.
ppotty1: Give it a go and let us know how it works mate.
ppotty1: Thats the idea mate hopefully it will. Cheers.
ppotty1: 2 cont... as I said not totally set on this idea will evaluate a few
different methods before picking the best, would be great to combine and
share ideas though...keep in touch. Cheers Loz.
ppotty1: Got a small mig welder last year and it welds stainless easier than Mild
steel. you shouldn't have any problem mate.
ppotty1: Good luck with your project Andy recycling is certainly cheaper when you
are testing these things out.
Andy Dzewo: Hi, I'm 110 miles from you but worth to see you job someday. Great
cooking-kitchen stove project(Oven plus). I was thinking about cochina one
before..but your is much better.My thinking/projects are connected to
recycling or reuse of scrap/rubbish things - so got an idea, instead of new
cooper pipes to use radiators (Inertia)...Except of Vortex Idea (Victor
Schaubergeger) your fuel feeder is the real Invention! Plse post PS English
is not my mother language so sorry if not "clear"
Graham Orm: Good stuff thanks for the encouragement. I'm half way through my steel
version so I think I'll finish it while I source some stainless. Any ideas
on where from? I have been dropping in on a local scrap yard for the bits I
have got/scrounged but I think they're fed up of me now!
Jeff Crutchfield: Great design! The more use you can put the heat generated too, the better.
Bob Vance: I have a feeling this water is going to get hot hot hot. Nice design mate.
Graham Orm: Mate are you in Manchester? You sound like a Manc. I am in Stockport half
way through a stove build.
Scott Powell: This seems to be good work . . .
ppotty1: Hi 599 Catropheus has already done a vid of his stove with a water jacket
around the riser tube, I wont go with that idea as it will take too long
for the riser to get up to temperature given the amount of water I have in
my heating system, I doubt it would ever get to the stage where it produced
steam given the size of the riser tube I will be using. My heating system
has 7 large radiators and two rooms with underfloor piped water heating so
I need a large heat exchanger and a hot riser tube.
belgrademachine: Interesting! Perhaps you mentioned it but will this be for home heat? or
other application ie. steam turbine etc. Again, I do like your secondary
air vortex system!
ppotty1: Hi Homeengineer yes you'r right about the lower flue exit, in this system
the bell shaped boiler acts like the outer casing of a stove and the gasses
exit close to the bottom of it, but instead of them being drawn away at the
bottom they rise again and are drawn out at the top it means the hot air
rises around the outside of the boiler again. I know some of the heat from
the inside will be drawn out but I could go on to encase the boiler with an
outer shield to prevent some loss..cont....
ppotty1: Thanks for those schpankme
Schpankme Verimuch: see: Spa & Hot Tub Heater Test (ApostolEngineering)
ppotty1: Thanks Belgrade ..yes its to heat the house radiators and hot water
ppotty1: Graham, I got a local firm to roll me a piece, cost me £30. you can buy
rigid stainless pipe from flue suppliers around the same money though.
Reginald Kinnaman: You only need 212 Degrees to Boil water, the top of your Rocket Updraft
tube can get up and over 1000 degrees. Be very cautious.
ppotty1: Thanks again Reginald.
coolobuttface: i'd rather have you do the bell
Inspironator: I see there are two ways to approach heating the water. If you go with
Reginald Kinnaman's suggestion, you would extract heat out of the cooler
chimney riser, and get more of that heat before it is lost outside.
Wrapping the tube outside the chimney tube would also give you an easier
way to keep the coil clean, and if you evern needed to clean the chimnea
pipe, you could run a standard wire chimnea brush up and down the smooth
surface of the flue. (Part 1 of 2 - To be continued)
ppotty1: Hi Inspironator, very good points something else to think about for sure ,
I have so many ideas now i am spoilt for choice. Thanks.
ppotty1: Graham, not far from you mate in southport let us know how the build goes.